Ice Dams at the Chimney: Snow and Winter Water Damage in Colorado

Chimney & fireplace guide

Ice Dams at the Chimney: Snow and Winter Water Damage in Colorado

How an ice dam forms at a chimney, why the up slope side needs a cricket, and what backed up snowmelt does to flashing, crown and brick in Colorado.

On this page

25sections
  1. 01How An Ice Dam Forms On A Front Range Roof
  2. 02Why The Chimney Is Where An Ice Dam Does Its Worst
  3. 03The Cricket On The Up Slope Side, And What Happens Without One
  4. 04The Snow Shadow Behind A Chimney With No Cricket
  5. 05Standing Water Defeats Flashing That Sheds Rain Fine
  6. 06The Warm Flue Paradox, Where Your Own Fire Makes The Ice
  7. 07Freeze Thaw Turns Trapped Water Into Broken Brick
  8. 08Spalling On The Up Slope Face
  9. 09Crown Cracks And Ice Sitting On Top
  10. 10Reading The Timing Of A Winter Chimney Leak
  11. 11Attic Heat And Ventilation, The Root Fix Above The Ceiling
  12. 12What To Do And What Never To Do About Ice On A Chimney
  13. 13Reasonable Things A Homeowner Can Do
  14. 14Things That Make It Worse
  15. 15Where This Fits In Your Winter Routine
  16. 16Ice Damage Is Not Storm Damage
  17. 17Frequently Asked Questions
  18. 18Does an ice dam at my chimney mean my roof is bad?
  19. 19Should I knock the ice off the chimney myself?
  20. 20Can I use salt or ice melt around the chimney?
  21. 21Why does my chimney leak in winter but never when it rains?
  22. 22How do I know whether my chimney needs a cricket?
  23. 23Can you inspect a chimney in the middle of winter?
  24. 24Will a new chimney cap stop an ice dam leak?
  25. 25Get Ahead Of The Next Freeze

An ice dam at the chimney is a ridge of ice that forms where snowmelt refreezes on cold roof. It matters at the chimney because that is where the water stops moving: melt runs down the slope, hits the ice, backs up, and stands in a shallow pond that works under shingles and behind flashing. On the up slope side, that pond has a masonry wall to lean against, so it gets deeper and lasts longer than anywhere else on the roof.

The damage is never dramatic while it happens. A stain on a February ceiling, a damp smell near the firebox, white powder on the brick in April, and by the third winter the joints on the up slope face are soft. Water that soaks into masonry and then freezes twenty times a season is what takes a chimney apart.

Here is how an ice dam forms, why the chimney collects it, what a cricket does about it, and what to do and not do when ice piles up around your stack.

How An Ice Dam Forms On A Front Range Roof

An ice dam is a heat problem before it is a water problem. Heat leaking from the living space warms the roof deck from underneath, and snow touching that warm deck melts even though the air outside is well below freezing. The meltwater runs down the slope under the snow until it reaches roof with no heated space beneath it, and refreezes.

  1. Snow accumulates and insulates the roof deck like a blanket.
  2. Attic heat warms the deck and melts the bottom layer of snow.
  3. Meltwater runs downhill, hidden under the snow.
  4. It reaches cold roof over unheated space and refreezes into a ridge.
  5. New melt backs up behind that ridge and works up under the shingles.

Colorado gives the cycle more chances than most climates. A Front Range day can start near ten degrees, reach the upper forties in full sun, and drop below freezing by dinner. South facing slopes clear early; north facing slopes hold snow for weeks and give us the worst dams. At altitude a dark roof runs far warmer than the air, so melting happens on days that never felt like it.

Why The Chimney Is Where An Ice Dam Does Its Worst

Eave dams hang icicles where the neighbors can see. The chimney is quieter and more expensive, because a chimney is a wall standing in the middle of a slope. Snow, meltwater, needles and shingle granules all arrive at the up slope face and stop. Front Range wind scours snow off the open roof and drops it in the calm pocket around obstructions, so the drift against a chimney is often the deepest snow up there, feeding water into one spot for days and refreezing at its edges every night.

The chimney also has a joint. Roof plane and masonry meet at a seam that depends entirely on flashing, and flashing is built to shed running water, not to sit submerged. Summer rain runs off in minutes. Winter melt stands for weeks.

Table 1. Where backed up snowmelt gets into a chimney assembly, and what each entry point produces inside the house.

Entry pointWhat lets water inWhat you noticeWhere the damage lands
Counterflashing seamSealant only, not cut into the jointCeiling stain near the chimneySheathing, top plate, ceiling drywall
Step flashingWater rises above the vertical legDamp insulation beside the stackAttic framing along the chimney
Shingles above the chimneyStanding water lifts the shingle edgeSoft decking, often no interior stainRoof deck, rots quietly
Brick and mortar jointsSaturated masonry wicks water inwardWhite powder, damp smell at the fireboxFirebox, smoke chamber, chimney wall
Crown cracksIce on the crown wedges hairlines openDebris and dampness inside the flueFlue liner and every course below

The Cricket On The Up Slope Side, And What Happens Without One

A cricket, or saddle, is a small peaked structure built onto the roof behind the chimney so that two planes fall away from the masonry and send snow and water around the stack instead of into it. Whether code requires one on your chimney comes down to its width across the ridgeline dimension, a question that belongs to the flashing system as a whole and is worked through in our guide to chimney flashing repair, with local amendments covered in Colorado chimney laws and regulations. What follows is the winter half of the story, which is what that up slope corner does across a season when no cricket is there.

The Snow Shadow Behind A Chimney With No Cricket

Without a cricket, the up slope face is a flat wall meeting a slope at a right angle, and that corner collects. Snow packs in, meltwater ponds, and ice stays after the roof is otherwise bare. What we find there:

  • Shingles above the chimney curled and brittle from repeated saturation.
  • A soft spot in the deck you feel underfoot before you see it.
  • Mortar joints on that one face recessed deeper than the other three.
  • A mat of needles and grit holding moisture against the brick all winter.

When three faces look fine and the fourth looks twenty years older, the roof is feeding water to that face.

Table 2. The same chimney on the same roof, with a properly built cricket and without one.

Winter conditionWith a cricketWithout a cricket
Snow from up slopeSplit and shed around both sidesPacks into the corner and drifts deeper
Meltwater pathRuns around the stack and downhillPonds against the masonry until it soaks in
Ice after a thawClears with the rest of the roofHolds in the shaded pocket for days longer
Flashing exposureSheds running water, as designedSits submerged, which no flashing is built for

Standing Water Defeats Flashing That Sheds Rain Fine

How counterflashing is attached to the masonry, and why that detail decides whether a chimney leaks, is the subject of our guide to chimney flashing repair, which also shows how to judge yours from the ground. The part that belongs to winter is the loading rather than the workmanship. Flashing of any grade is built to shed running water for the minutes a storm lasts, and an ice dam asks it instead to hold back a shallow pond that sits in place for weeks, which is why the most common winter leak we chase appears during a thaw and never during a summer downpour.

The Warm Flue Paradox, Where Your Own Fire Makes The Ice

A chimney used all winter can make more ice at its base than one sitting cold and idle.

A working flue carries hot exhaust and masonry holds that heat for hours, so the stack becomes a warm column standing in a snowfield.

  1. Snow packed against the brick melts from the masonry outward.
  2. The meltwater runs onto roof a foot or two away, where no warm masonry sits underneath.
  3. There it refreezes into a low ring circling the stack.
  4. Each burn deepens the ring, until a moat of standing water sits inside it, directly on the flashing.

From the yard that reads as bare brick surrounded by clean melted roof, which looks like good drainage. It is the opposite. Furnace and water heater flues do the same at lower temperature, staying a few degrees above ambient all January, plenty to keep a drip going into a freezing night.

Freeze Thaw Turns Trapped Water Into Broken Brick

Water expands about nine percent when it freezes. Brick that has taken on water has ice pushing outward from inside its own pores, and brick is strong in compression but has nothing to resist being pried apart from within. Ice dams do not add a new kind of damage; they hold masonry at saturation through the exact months it freezes every night. A chimney rained on in July dries by evening. A chimney sitting in an ice dam is wet Monday, frozen Monday night, thawed Tuesday, and still wet in March.

Spalling On The Up Slope Face

Spalling is the brick face popping off in flakes, leaving a rough lighter crater, and on an ice dam chimney it shows on one face first. Once a face spalls, the exposed interior is far more absorbent than the fired skin, so the next winter takes on more water and the damage accelerates. While it is still limited to the joints, tuckpointing the mortar joints restores the seal before the brick itself goes.

Crown Cracks And Ice Sitting On Top

The crown is the sloped slab across the top that throws water clear of the flue, and it is the coldest concrete on the house. Snow melts against a warm flue tile in the middle, runs to the cold outer edge, and freezes. Any hairline crack becomes a wedge, opens each cycle, and turns into a gap feeding the top of the masonry. Crown repair and replacement stops it there instead of chasing it lower down.

Reading The Timing Of A Winter Chimney Leak

Winter chimney leaks announce themselves indoors long before anybody gets on the roof, showing up as a ceiling stain near the chimney, a damp ashy smell at the firebox on warm days, or damp insulation in the attic within a few feet of the masonry. Sorting those symptoms by water path is the job of our guide on why chimneys leak, which takes the rain side and the winter side in one pass. The tell that belongs to ice dams alone is timing: if a ceiling stains after a warm February afternoon but stays dry through a driving August rain, the water is not falling on the chimney, it is standing on it.

Attic Heat And Ventilation, The Root Fix Above The Ceiling

Every fix at the chimney itself is defensive. The cause of an ice dam is warm air where it should not be, an attic problem. A cold roof does not melt snow. Insulation stops heat leaving the living space, ventilation carries away what gets up there anyway. The leaks people forget:

  • The attic hatch or pull down stair, uninsulated and unweatherstripped.
  • Can lights in the top floor ceiling, holes in the air barrier unless rated and sealed.
  • Bath and kitchen fans terminated into the attic instead of through the roof.
  • Duct runs with loose joints, leaking conditioned air all heating season.
  • The chase around the chimney, often an open shaft with no air seal at the top plate.

That last one counts twice, as a heat leak feeding the dam and as a fire safety detail. Insulation work is not chimney work and we will say so, but we can show you where warm air escapes around the stack.

What To Do And What Never To Do About Ice On A Chimney

Reasonable Things A Homeowner Can Do

  • Watch from the ground with binoculars. Nearly everything here is visible from the yard.
  • Photograph the chimney after each heavy snow from the same spot, to compare how long ice lasts.
  • Keep gutters and downspouts clear in the fall so melt has somewhere to go.
  • Treat interior stains as evidence. Photograph and date them before painting over.

Things That Make It Worse

  1. Never chip, hammer or pry ice off a chimney or the roof around it. The ice is frozen into the mortar joints and under the shingle edges, so what comes away with it is joint material, brick face and sometimes flashing. We have replaced more masonry wrecked by ice removal than by ice.
  2. Never put salt or ice melt on masonry. Chloride salts soak into brick and mortar with the meltwater, crystallize inside the pores, and break the material apart the same way ice does, except salt keeps working after a thaw.
  3. Do not climb a snow covered roof to look. Ice under fresh powder is one of the more dangerous surfaces on a house, and nothing you learn there in January cannot wait.
  4. Do not pour hot water on ice at the chimney. It refreezes within the hour, deeper into the assembly, and adds water to masonry that already has too much.
  5. Do not seal a leaking chimney from inside, and do not brush a film forming sealer over damp brick. Both trap water in the masonry and keep it saturated through freeze thaw season.

Where This Fits In Your Winter Routine

The burning side of winter, meaning creosote, drafting and carbon monoxide, is laid out season by season in our winter chimney safety checklist, and everything here is the water side of that same walk around. For ice, three moments carry most of the information: the first heavy snow, the first hard thaw, and spring melt. Photograph all four faces from the ground before the snow flies, because the comparison in April is what tells you which face is losing ground.

Ice Damage Is Not Storm Damage

Hail is a dated, regional event that leaves impact marks on shingles, cap lids and chase covers, and that path runs through an insurance claim, which our guide to chimney storm and hail damage and the insurance process handles start to finish. Ice dam damage is the opposite, being cumulative and undated, so it is commonly treated as maintenance rather than a sudden covered loss and the repair is usually yours to plan rather than to claim. That is why the winter side rewards catching it early, and why chimney repair booked in spring, after the last hard freeze and before monsoon season, is when mortar cures properly and winter damage is easiest to read.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does an ice dam at my chimney mean my roof is bad?

Not usually. Ice dams are a heat and airflow problem more than a shingle problem, and a new roof over a leaky attic dams as readily as an old one.

Should I knock the ice off the chimney myself?

No. The ice is frozen into the mortar joints, under shingle edges and around the flashing, so chipping takes those with it. A pitched winter roof is also a serious fall risk.

Can I use salt or ice melt around the chimney?

Not on or near masonry. Chloride salts dissolve into meltwater, soak into brick and mortar, then crystallize inside the pores and break the material apart much the way freezing does.

Why does my chimney leak in winter but never when it rains?

Because the entry point needs standing water. Counterflashing caulked on rather than cut into the joint sheds a twenty minute rain but cannot hold back a pond sitting against it for two weeks.

How do I know whether my chimney needs a cricket?

Start with width. More than thirty inches across the dimension parallel to the ridge, and not at the ridgeline, and the code calls for one. Then watch where snow drifts and ice lingers.

Can you inspect a chimney in the middle of winter?

Interior work and camera scans run year round, and a thaw is the best time to trace an active leak. Rooftop work waits for conditions; we will not put somebody on an iced roof.

Will a new chimney cap stop an ice dam leak?

Only the part coming in from the top. A cap keeps snow out of the flue and shelters the crown. It does nothing about water backing up under shingles and behind flashing at the roofline.

Get Ahead Of The Next Freeze

Ice dam damage at a chimney is slow, quiet and predictable. It starts as a corner behind the stack that holds snow a little too long, and it ends as a crown you can put a finger into and a brick face that comes off in your hand. Every step is visible from your own yard, once you know the up slope side is the side to watch.

Call Adam Chimney Sweep at (720) 207-9232 to get a chimney inspection on the calendar, or reach us through our contact page. We will show you photographs of what the up slope side of your chimney actually looks like, and say honestly whether the fix belongs to us, to a roofer, or to an insulation crew.

Ready when you are.

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